STATES AND UNION TERRITORIES OF INDIA
ANDHRA PRADESH
Ahobilam Yatra
- Aparna Rajagopal
(Ahobilam is located in Karnool district of Andhra Pradesh in the hills of the eastern ghats, about 400km northwest of Chennai. To get
to Ahobila by road you will have to pass through Renigunta, Kadappa,
and Allagadda. Thirumalai Tiruppati is on the way. The temple
consists of nine shrines to Lord Nrisimha located around a 5 KM circle.
Ahobila Nrisimha, Jwala Nrisimha, Malola Nrisimha, Kroda Nrisimha,
Karanja Nrisimha, Bhargava Nrisimha, Yaogananda Nrisimha, Kshatravata
Nrisimha, Pavana Nrisimha. In addition to the nine shrines, there is a
temple for Prahaladavarada Varadhan in the foothills of the mountain.
Source: ahobilamutt.org)
21 of us were picked up from Ashok Nagar metro station around 9pm on a
Friday in a tempo traveller, navigating the traffic to reach the
outskirts of Chennai took a few hours. Reached Malola guest house at
6.30am Saturday. We got ready right away, had breakfast and waited for
the jeeps to pick us up. A rusty rickety Mahindra jeep was our ride for
the forenoon, visiting Pavana and Bharghava Narasimha temples.
The 1.5 hour one way ride along the rugged "roads" full of rocks,
potholes covered in red dust made sure to rattle every single bone in
our body. As we neared Pavana river we could see a lot of villagers
heading towards the temple in their tractors. They belong to the
Padmasali tribe into which Mahalakshmi Thayar was born as Chenchu
Lakshmi to marry Narasimhaswami.
They have this tradition of giving "Bali" to the exalted mappilai
(son-in-law) of their tribe most Saturdays. The jeep dropped us off a km
away from the temple. We trudged thru the blood soaked ground picking
our way between goat and chicken carcasses to reach the Garuda stambam
that guards the temple, from whence into the quaint temple that houses
LakshmiNarasimha at the banks of Pavana river. The villagers let us
outsiders have a relaxed darshan for as long as we wished and the
Bhattar did not ask us to leave either.
Here Bhagwan is seated in Sukhasana on Adisesha and has four hands, the
upper two carry Shanku and Chakra, the lower right in abhaya pose, while
the lower left embraces Lakshmi seated on His left thigh. Had a
wonderful darshan and got ready for another round of bone rattling.
The villagers were already cooking their share of goat/chicken all over
the forest. There were signs of forest fires and the forest in some
places were littered with paper plates. The forest rangers belong to the
same tribe too, so they leave the villagers be and let them do what they
please.
We were relieved to hit a smooth road and the relief lasted for all of 6
minutes as we entered another rugged path to reach the foothills of
Bharghava Narasimha temple. We walked about half a kilometre up a slight
slope where we could see tree branches that looked like swings, reached
Bharghava Theertham where Parashurama had performed his penance towards
Narasimha and Bhagwan appeared in front of him to bless him. Climbed a
few dozens of steps to reach Bharghava Narasimha temple, very quiet
sannidhi, just a few of us who were agile enough to climb up and reach
ahead of others (and the vanara sena of course).
Bhattar explained the Kshetrapurana and gave us theertham sadari.
Narasimha here has 4 arms, upper 2 holding Shanku chakkaram, the other 2
tearing at Hiranyakashipu on his lap, who is seen holding a sword.
Prahaladha is seen with folded hands, Anjali posture at the Bhagwan's
feet.
Now some more bone rattling back to the guesthouse, had lunch and turned in for a short siesta.
Around 4pm started again in the tempo traveller. First temple we visited
was Yoganandha Narasimaswamy temple. This is another tiny simple temple
with a modern structure, just one sannidhi. Legend is that Narasimha
taught Prahladha Yoga in this place and Prahlada obtained greatness by
following His teachings. Here Bhagwan is in a seated position on a
Garuda pedestal with Yogapatta around his knees. 4 hands, upper 2
holding Shanka chakra and lower two resting on his knees.
(Inexplicably a well like structure was being built on a level ground
right outside the sannidhi, Future Yatris should share an update about
that curious structure)
Next up went to Chatravata Narasimha temple. A peepul tree (vata)
forming an umbrella like canopy (chathra) for the temple. Here Bhagwan
has a lovely smiling face seated in Padmasana, upper 2 hands holding
Shanka Chakra, lower right as abhayahasta and lower left resting on his
thigh. Legend is that 2 gandharvas named Haha and Huhu (interesting
names) came down to entertain the Bhagwan by singing to him for a long
time and He made them the best singers of all 3 worlds during their
time. So the Bhattar asked us to sing bhajan or chant. So we all chanted
Vishnusahasranama and Mantrarajapata stotram in the sannidhi. Excellent
vibe there for a short time.
Then we headed towards Prahladavarada Narasimha temple, the largest
temple in Ahobilam, and the only one in Digva or lower Ahobilam, not a
part of nava Narasimha cluster, which are all in Eguva or upper
Ahobilam. On the way visited a Hanuman temple. No one was there but us,
Anjees was covered in Sendhuram and looked wonderful.
Prahladavaradha temple was built over the time by rulers of Vijayanagara
and Kakatiya empires. The architecture is mainly Vijayanagara type,
with beautiful sculptures in Mukha mandapam and Ranga mandapam. At the
main entrance as we walk thru the arches, there is a tall Vijayastambha
established by Krishnadeva Raya to commemorate his victory in Kalinga.
The temple is adorned with beautiful sculptures right from the entrance
wall. Prahladavaradha Narasimha has the main sannidhi, Amrithavalli
Thayar blesses from the adjacent sannidhi. Besides there are sannidhis
for Rama parivar, Hanuman and Andal. Inside the main Sannidhi
Prahladhavaradha Narasimha is seated with Thayar on his lap. He holds
shanka chakra and abhayahasta. Prahladha is seen nearby in Anjali pose.
Inside the sannidhi there is a niche filled with richly decorated utsava
murthis of this temple and those of the Nava Narasimhas, which are
taken to upper Ahobilam during utsava times.
You can spend hours in this temple looking at the beautiful sculptures.
After this temple we went to ISKCON for our dinner. We couldn't believe
that in the middle of nowhere there is this huge prayer hall and a huge
dining hall catering to their followers, they also have a
self-sustaining garden. When we reached, there came a busload of
caucasians dancing and singing, they did one bhajan and danced, went
their way, Krishna knows where to!! Saying that we were astonished at
their level of dedication and energy would be an understatement. After a
day of going around we all looked like drained out half-zombies, in
front of that chirpy dancing crowd.
The next morning we started the trek up the hills at Upper Ahobilam from
the gates of Ugra Narasimha temple at the foothills of the Nallamalai
range. Nallamalai is a dense forest area that is home to tigers and
black bears; we were warned to be in a group, not wander off lest we
catch the attention of these inhabitants. We all hired a bamboo stick
for 10 rupees (good business model there by the locals).
Crossed the lowest part of Bhavanasini River to reach the top of the
Achalachaya Meru where sits Jwala Narasimha in all his glory. The trek
was arduous, in some places formidable. One wrong step, you will be on a
free fall into the rocky ravine several 100 feet in depth, or twist
your ankle and be in a deep trouble as getting help in this rugged
terrain is near impossible.
We trekked thru little rocky streams and climbed rough sharp rock faces
which gave no purchase whatsoever. After 1.5 hours reached a bridge on a
flat terrain and decided to rest with a sigh of relief. We were told
after this there are several 100 steps to climb. Then we realised the
sigh of relief was a bit premature as the steps were steep and the
incline was sharp. Panting and puffing reached another hill and someone
pointed to a temple structure at a fair distance, our destination. Jai
Bajrangbali, lets do it. We trudged ahead, reached a trickling
waterfall, walked thru it to reach the temple of Jwala Narasimha.
This place, they told us was the threshold of the palace of
Hiranyakashipu. The temple itself is a cave with 3 Narasimha murtis,
Chaturbhuja Narasimha, Ashtabhuja Narasimha and a Narasimha about to
lift Hiranyakashipu.
Ashtabhija Narasimha in his most ferocious form is seated on a Garuda
pedestal Prahalada standing to the left in Anjali pose. One pair of
hands is holding down Hiranyakashipu on His folded right leg, the second
pair tearing him open, the third pair holding the entrails of
Hiranyakashipu as garland and the fourth pair hold Shanku and Chakra.
Chaturbhuja Narasimha is seen holding Shanka and Chakras in his top 2
hands and the other two hands are in the process of breaking open the
pillar.
The third murti is holding the head of the sword wielding Hiranyakashipu
with one hand, the other hooked to his midriff in the process of
lifting him on to his lap.
Here too the Bhattar explained all forms of Narasimha residing there and the kshetrapurana.
Just outside the cave is a small pond (locked behind a bamboo gate)
called "Raktha kundam" where Narasimha washed the blood off his hands
after slaying Hiranyakashipu.
Just off the side along the waterfall is a path marked "Way to Ugra
stambha", the pillar from which Narasimha manifested himself with a
mighty roar. The climb is near vertical and will take 4-5 hours one way
we were told. So we made our way down the hill, steps to reach another
small bridge over Bhavanasini river. It is said that Suraganga was
poured on Jwala Narasimha after he slayed Hiranyakashipu and the water
is still flowing as Bhavanasini river. We got a good view of Ugra
Stambham from this bridge.
Now another trek along steep hills and narrow ledges, this stretch was
the most difficult for me as I was thirsty but couldn't drink water
anymore as it made me breathless while climbing. Finally reached the
entrance of Malola Narasimha temple. There was a huuuuge crowd of
villagers outside the temple that we thought we can't get inside. But
then someone lead us along the periphery of the crowd into the temple.
Such a lovely beautiful deity there. Narasimha is seated in Sukhasana
with Lakshmi on his folded left leg. 2 upper hands are holding Shanku
Chakra, lower right as abhayahasta, lower left holding Lakshmi. The
dangling right leg rests on a lotus.
From here we went downhill along the rugged paths and some steps to
reach Kroda or Varaha Narasimha at the nook of a small falls of
Bhavanasini. The cave sits sideways so we can't face the deity directly
here. The Narasimhamurti is in the form of Varaha here as he is said to
have taken this form to retrieve the Vedas dropped by Brahma into the
patala. He is also called Krodakara 'coz he is cross with Brahma for
dropping the Vedas which were handed to him.
There are 2 deities in this temple, one being Lakshmi Narasimha and the
other Varaha Narasimha in Tribhanga kolam, boar head, human torso and
lion tail. Bhudevi is seen holding on to the tusk of Varaha. A small
path from here leads to Prahalada mettu, a flat ledge which was supposed
to be the school of Prahaladha. We didn't go there as the path was
precarious with broken steps and ledges. The rock faces still have
letters written by the pupils at the school of Prahaladha.
From here we went down the hill, handed the bamboo stick back and went
into Ugra Narasimha shrine. A good sized temple has been built around
the cave that is the abode of Ugra Narasimha. Here the murti is in Ugra
form holding down Hiranyakashipu on his lap. This temple is also called
as Ahobila Narasimha temple.
The final one of the Nava Narasimha we visited was Karanja or Saranga
Narasimha. Karanja because he is sitting under a Karanja tree (Pungai
maram) Saranga because he is holding a bow in his left hand instead of
shanku and Chakra in his right hand. The other 2 hands are holding yoga
mudra. This concluded our Ahobilam Yatra. We then headed towards Chennai
post lunch.
Pro tips for visiting Ahobilam
Tip 1: Choose a mild season, start climbing early in the morning so that
you can be back before the sun starts sapping your energy. Avoid
monsoon season as the creeks will be full, making it hard to navigate.
Tip 2: Wear only pure cotton clothes. Don't wear veshti or saree, wear
pants/ salwar. Carry a backpack not a sling bag. You need both the hands
free for balancing yourself
Tip 3: We wore shoes. We were ok, but not the best choice. Wear slippers
which you can carry when you need to walk in the water, make sure they
aren't slippery when you slip them on again.
Tip 4: carry a lot of water, dry fruits, energy drinks, but not as much that the bag pulls you down.
When Thirumangai azhwar said
கவ்வுநாயும்கழுகும் உச்சிபோதொடுகால்சுழன்று,
தெய்வமல்லால் செல்லவொண்ணாச் சிங்கவேள் குன்றமே
He probably forgot about the vanara sena.
Tip 5: do not open your bag to take out biscuits on the hills if you don't want a pack of monkeys jumping on you.
When another lady & I opened our bags to drink water a few monkeys
came running. We made the universal gesture of "nothing here" by fanning
our palms out. This infuriated those monkeys, when we started walking
one of them peed on the lady and another threw a stick at me from the
tree branch up above. Not a freshly broken branch but an old stick
picked up for the express purpose of using as a weapon.
Tip 6: don't take pictures while walking. Stop, stand on a flat surface
before doing so. One mama slipped a few feet down a hill when he started
recording video as he was walking. Thankfully he wasn't hurt.
Tip 7: carry a container with lid as the Bhattars at the temples readily
fill the container with thulasi theertham when requested.
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